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    Pharma – Auditorium Set Design with a Backlit Backdrop and Stage Bridge — Unical Graphic

    Printing on rigid materials

    Direct printing on PVC, Dibond, acrylic, foam board or wood, with shape cutting. We produce at our workshop in Barcelona and install throughout Spain.

    • Direct printing on the panel, with no intermediate vinyl
    • Shape cutting, drilled holes and finished edges
    • From a single piece to a full production run

    Tell us about your piece

    We reply the same business day.

    Request a quote No obligation · we review your file for free
    The service

    What printing on rigid materials is, and when it pays off

    It means printing directly onto the panel: the ink sits on the PVC, Dibond, acrylic or wood, with no vinyl stuck on top. That changes two things. First, there's no separate layer that can lift, bubble or peel off along an edge over time. Second, the piece leaves the workshop already finished, rigid and ready to hang, screw in place or stand up, with no need for a frame or supporting structure.

    It pays off when the piece has to hold up on its own: a panel screwed to a wall, a plaque mounted on standoffs, a warehouse sign that takes knocks, a point-of-sale piece that gets assembled and taken apart repeatedly. It also works when the shape isn't a rectangle, because the panel is cut to whatever profile is needed and drilled wherever required — something a flexible material simply can't do.

    If the surface is flexible or very large, that's different territory: advertising banners for technical fabric and adhesive vinyl for glass and wall graphics. Street-facing supports are covered in outdoor advertising, portable trade-show structures in POS displays, and the printing technology behind all of this in large-format printing. When a rigid piece stops being graphics and becomes the shop's actual sign, that's commercial signage. The whole Printing section is at digital printing.

    What we make from the panel

    Pieces that
    stand on their own

    Everything that comes off a printed, cut panel. The material and edge finish change, but the approach is always the same: a finished piece, ready to install.

    Loading 3D scene
    Use01 / 06

    The large wall piece: receptions, meeting rooms, corridors. Mounted flush or on standoffs, and if it won't fit on one panel it's split into sections, working out where the joins fall.

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    Materials and finishes

    What panel
    we print on

    In rigid materials, the material isn't a finishing detail: it decides the weight, how the piece hangs, whether it holds up outdoors and how much it costs. Start with where the piece is going and the material follows.

    Sample 04 / 07

    Acrylic

    The most refined finish: the polished edge and the gap from the wall give a depth no other material achieves. Printed with a white backing coat so colour has body.

    SettingIndoor and outdoor
    Durability+10 years
    See this material in detail →
    Materials guide

    Each material, in detail

    The quick comparison is further down. This is what we explain before settling on a material: thickness, whether it holds up outdoors, how it's printed, which finishes it takes and when it's the wrong choice. If you're torn between the three most common ones, see our comparison of Forex, Dibond and acrylic.

    Jump to: Dibond · Foam PVC · Acrylic · Foam board · Fluted polypropylene · Polycarbonate

    Dibond (aluminium composite, ACM)

    Two thin aluminium sheets with a polyethylene core in between. Dibond is a brand name that has become generic; you'll also see it called aluminium composite panel or ACM. The usual thickness is 3 mm, which covers almost every plaque and panel, and large formats get a rear frame for support. It works just as well indoors as outdoors: it doesn't absorb water, doesn't corrode and stays flat in the heat. With a UV laminate it lasts several years outside, although sun exposure is what decides most.

    We print it directly with UV ink, or with printed, laminated vinyl when the piece faces a harsh outdoor setting or has to be folded. It takes contour cutting, drilling with standoffs, V-groove routing to fold edges and make boxes, and mounting on a frame. It's the material for company plaques, facades, outdoor wayfinding and large wall panels. Don't choose it for an indoor campaign lasting a few weeks, where PVC does the job for less, or for pieces that get assembled and taken down many times: a knock on a corner dents the aluminium.

    Full guide: printing on Dibond →

    Foam PVC (Forex)

    A closed-cell PVC sheet: light, white, matt and very easy to cut. Forex is another brand name turned generic; in the workshop it's also called expanded PVC. Standard thicknesses are 3 mm for hanging or stuck-on signs, 5 mm for wall panels and freestanding pieces, and 10 mm when you need body or a visible edge. Indoors it lasts for years. Outdoors it works for temporary use in sheltered spots: in direct sun, especially in dark colours and large formats, it tends to bow.

    It's printed directly with UV ink, with very good colour on the white surface, or with laminated vinyl if the piece will be handled a lot. It takes contour cutting, drilling, slot-in feet so it stands on its own, and fixing with double-sided tape. It's the material for indoor signage, POS, campaign posters and cut-out silhouettes. Don't choose it for permanent outdoor use in full sun, for a large panel that has to stay perfectly flat, or for a piece that needs to look high-end.

    Full guide: printing on foam PVC →

    Acrylic (PMMA)

    A rigid, clear plastic, also called methacrylate or PMMA, that looks like glass but is lighter and less fragile. It comes clear, opal (the one that diffuses light in light boxes and backlit letters), coloured, black and mirrored. For signage the usual range is 3 to 10 mm: thinner sheets for small plaques and sign faces, thicker ones when you want an edge with presence. It works indoors and outdoors, is light-stable and lasts more than ten years; what ages first is the graphic if it's exposed on the front.

    The most common approach is reverse printing on the back face, mirrored and with a white backing layer, so the graphic shows through the material and stays protected. Vinyl can also be applied to the back, or the front can be printed. It takes contour cutting, polished edges, metal standoffs and heat bending for lecterns and displays. It's the material for reception plaques, directories and sign faces. Don't choose it for a short campaign, for a large outdoor panel, where Dibond is more practical, or for stages with lights and cameras, because it reflects.

    Full guide: printing on acrylic →

    Foam board

    A polystyrene foam core between two faces of card or coated paper. It's the lightest and cheapest of everything we print on, and it's mostly used in 5 and 10 mm, with 3 mm for small pieces. It's an indoor, short-life material, meant for days or weeks: damp makes it ripple, sun warps it, and a knock on the edge or face leaves a mark that won't come out.

    It's printed directly with UV ink and cut straight or to shape. Adhesive hangers or cord are enough to hang it, and an easel back lets it stand. It doesn't take drilling or screws well, because the foam crumbles. We use it for presentations, talks, one-day event signage, welcome boards and short window campaigns. Don't choose it if the piece will pass through many hands, be set up at several events or sit in a busy area: foam PVC is worth it there.

    Fluted polypropylene

    A plastic sheet with two faces joined by internal channels, like corrugated cardboard but made of polypropylene; it's also known as corrugated plastic or Correx. It weighs very little, water doesn't affect it and it takes knocks and bending without snapping. The usual thickness is 3.5 or 5 mm. It works outdoors for temporary use, in the order of months: with prolonged sun exposure the material turns brittle and the colour fades.

    It's printed directly with UV ink. It takes contour cutting, drilling and eyelets for cable-tying to fences and lampposts, and it can be folded along the flutes to make simple boxes and displays. It's the go-to board for construction-site and estate-agent signs, temporary signage at outdoor events and street campaigns. Don't choose it when the surface has to look flawless up close, because the flutes show against the light, or for a permanent piece: that calls for Dibond or PVC.

    Polycarbonate

    A clear plastic like acrylic, but with far higher impact resistance: it's the material that doesn't crack. For signage it's normally used between 2 and 5 mm. It handles indoor and outdoor use, and good outdoor grades carry UV protection so they don't yellow over the years. On the other hand, it scratches more easily than acrylic and its edge can't be polished to the same finish.

    It's printed directly with UV ink, on the front or on the back face so the graphic is protected from scuffing. It takes contour cutting, drilling and cold bending in thin gauges. We use it in high-traffic areas, industry and logistics, plaques in places at risk of vandalism, machine guards and signage that could take a serious knock. Don't choose it if you're after the most refined finish, with a polished edge and gloss, because that's what acrylic gives you, or for everyday indoor signage, where foam PVC costs considerably less.

    To sort the criteria by type of project, see our guide to types of rigid printing materials.

    Tell us where the piece is going and we'll tell you which material to order

    How we work

    From panel to
    an installed piece

    1. Step 01

      Material and fixing

      The first question isn't which material you want, it's how the piece will be fixed and what it needs to withstand. That determines the thickness and support: a screwed plaque, one mounted on standoffs and one that simply rests don't call for the same thing, and don't weigh the same either.

    2. Step 02

      File, shape and colour

      We check resolution and colour at full size and prepare the cut line as a separate path, with holes and slots already marked. If the profile you're asking for leaves a fragile section or a snagging edge, we say so before cutting.

    3. Step 03

      Printing and cutting

      Direct printing on the panel, with a white backing coat when the material is transparent or coloured, and cutting on the table at our workshop in Cabrera de Mar. Not depending on an outside supplier means we can prioritise a deadline without joining someone else's queue.

    4. Step 04

      Installation or delivery

      We install with our own team, including fixings and standoffs, or deliver the piece with a drilling template so your team can install it. For multi-site runs, each location is packaged separately.

    01 / 04
    Before requesting a quote

    Which rigid material to choose depending on where the piece goes

    A summary to get you oriented before the call. The question that best guides the decision isn't the budget, it's whether the piece goes outdoors and whether anyone could knock it.

    Relative cost compares the materials against each other; these aren't fixed prices. The maximum panel size is 2 × 3 m; above that, the piece is split into sections. Standard thicknesses are 1, 2, 3, 5, 10 and 20 mm, and not all of them exist in every material.
    MaterialIdeal useIndoor/outdoorImpact resistanceRelative cost
    Foam PVCSignage, construction sites and warehousesBothMediumLow
    DibondLarge panels and facade piecesBothHighHigh
    Foam boardEvents, campaigns and presentationsIndoorLowVery low
    AcrylicPlaques, directories and refined finishesBothMediumHigh
    PolycarbonateHigh-traffic areas and industrial settingsBothVery highHigh
    Wood and MDFInterior design and hospitalityIndoorMediumMedium
    POS cardboardPoint of sale and short campaignsIndoorLowVery low
    Not sure which one you need? Send us a photo of the site and the measurements and we'll tell you
    Pricing

    How the price of a rigid piece is calculated

    The base is the square metre of panel, and the material makes a huge difference here: there's an enormous gap between foam board and Dibond for the same size. On top of that comes the cutting, which is charged per linear metre of path, so a complicated silhouette can cost more than the printing itself even on a small piece.

    What almost nobody accounts for is how efficiently the panel is used. The maximum panel size is 2 × 3 m, so a piece that's a little larger than that can force us to open up an entire extra panel, or split it into sections, sending the price up. If you have any flexibility on dimensions, tell us: sometimes shaving off two centimetres drops the price a tier.

    Tell us the material and dimensions and we'll break down the cost

    What moves the price the most

    • Material and thicknessThis is the main factor. The same panel in foam board or in Dibond is worlds apart in both price and service life.
    • Panel efficiencyIf your dimensions fit the standard format, wastage drops and so does the price. A little flexibility here makes a big difference.
    • Metres of cuttingA rectangle is minimal cutting. A detailed silhouette with holes and slots multiplies the time on the table.
    • Edge finishLeaving the cut edge as is, polishing it or capping it are three different things, and on acrylic it shows at a glance.
    • Quantity and installationA repeated run brings the unit price down, and having us install it versus delivering it with a drilling template are two different quotes.

    Google reviews

    What our clients say

    5,044 reviews on Google

    • 5/5

      Servicio impecable de principio a fin. La calidad de impresión es top, pero lo que realmente marca la diferencia es la atención y el trato: rápidos, cercanos y muy profesionales.

      Aaron Cuenca AguilarGoogle · Original review in Spanish

    • 5/5

      Servicio de impresión que impresiona, por su calidad y rapidez. Más allá de la increible calidad, me gustaría destacar la facilidad de comunicacion y la adaptacion al calendario.

      Pol Hernández RosiusGoogle · Original review in Spanish

    • 5/5

      Excelente empresa, la recomiendo ampliamente. Necesitábamos estos expositores con urgencia debido a un cambio de última hora, y nos los proporcionaron a un precio excelente. La calidad fue excepcional.

      Pol torralba dregerGoogle · Original review in Spanish

    See all reviews on Google →
    Frequently asked questions

    We answer your questions

    What people ask us before ordering a rigid piece: materials, thicknesses, shape cutting, files, fixing and outdoor behaviour.

    Can't find your question?

    Tell us about your project

    What's the difference between printing directly on the rigid material and applying a vinyl to it?

    With direct printing, the ink sits on the panel itself, so there's no intermediate layer that can lift along an edge, bubble or peel off over the years. Vinyl on rigid material still makes sense in some cases, especially when the material doesn't accept direct printing or when the graphics will be updated while keeping the same support. If you tell us how long the piece needs to last and whether it'll be updated, we'll tell you which of the two suits you.

    Which material should I choose?

    Start with two questions: whether the piece goes outdoors and whether anyone could knock it. For indoor signage and construction sites, foam PVC does the job. For large panels and anything going on a facade, Dibond, because it doesn't warp. For events and campaigns, foam board, the cheapest and lightest option. For plaques where finish matters, acrylic. And for high-traffic areas and industrial settings, polycarbonate, the one that doesn't crack. Send us a photo of the site and the measurements and we'll get specific.

    What's the difference between Dibond, Forex and acrylic?

    They're the three rigid materials we print on most, and they solve different problems. Forex (foam PVC) is light and affordable, and performs best indoors and in campaigns that get changed. Dibond (aluminium composite) stays flat and lasts for years outdoors, which is why it goes on facades, entrance plaques and large panels. Acrylic is the finish material: clarity, gloss and polished edges for receptions and company plaques. If the piece goes outside, think Dibond; if it's indoor and temporary, Forex; if it has to look its best, acrylic.

    Foam board or foam PVC?

    It depends on how long the piece needs to last and how much it will be handled. Foam board is lighter and cheaper, but any knock marks it and it can't cope with damp: it's fine for an event or a campaign lasting days. Foam PVC stands up to daily use, can be drilled and can be reused, so for weeks or months, or for pieces that get set up several times, it's worth it.

    What material should I use for a temporary outdoor sign?

    For a few weeks or a few months, fluted polypropylene is the most practical option: it's light, rain doesn't affect it and it can be cable-tied to fences or lampposts. Foam PVC also works if the spot is sheltered from direct sun. If the sign has to last more than a season outdoors, move up to Dibond.

    Can you cut the piece to any shape I want?

    Yes. We cut on a table, so the shape doesn't need a die-cutting tool and therefore doesn't push up the price the way it would in another process. We can do silhouettes, holes, mounting slots and standalone letters. What we do check beforehand is whether the profile you're asking for leaves a section too thin that could break during handling, or a sharp edge that could be a problem if within people's reach.

    How should I send the file if the piece is cut to shape?

    Ideally a PDF or vector file with the graphics and, on a separate layer, the cut line as a path, with holes marked. If you don't have it that way, that's fine: we'll prepare it from your design and send it back for you to approve before cutting. What doesn't work is an image where the cut line has to be guessed, because that's where mistakes creep in.

    What thickness do I need?

    It depends on the size of the piece and how it's fixed. A small screwed plaque holds up fine with little thickness; a large panel supported only at the ends needs more body so it doesn't bow. The most common mistake is cutting it too thin on large pieces and discovering the curve a month after installing them. We work with thicknesses of 1, 2, 3, 5, 10 and 20 mm, although not all exist in every material. Tell us the dimensions and fixing method and we'll tell you which to order.

    Do they hold up outdoors?

    It depends on the material. Dibond, foam PVC, polycarbonate and acrylic all go outdoors without issue, and acrylic durability exceeds ten years. Foam board, wood and POS cardboard are for indoor use: outdoors they swell or warp. That said, what most shortens the life of an outdoor piece isn't the material but its sun exposure, and we assess that against the specific location.

    Can you finish the edge?

    Yes, and on some materials it makes more of a difference than the printing itself. On acrylic, a polished edge is exactly what separates a decent plaque from one that looks like it's in a different league. On Dibond and PVC the usual approach is to leave the cut clean, and on pieces that people will handle we take the sharpness off the edge. Tell us where the piece is going and who will be touching it and we'll propose the finish.

    Do you install it or do you just deliver it?

    Both. If we install it, our own team comes with fixings and standoffs included. If you'd rather your own team fit it, we deliver the piece with a drilling template so there's no need to measure on the wall, which is where unevenness usually shows up. For multi-site runs, each location ships packaged separately and labelled.

    Do you manufacture in-house or outsource?

    We manufacture at our facilities at Passatge la Carola, 2, in Cabrera de Mar, and install with our own team. We don't outsource either. It matters especially with rigid materials, because the typical problem shows up right at the join between whoever cuts and whoever installs: a hole one centimetre off means redoing the whole panel, and if a third party did the cutting, that fix costs days. Here it's resolved in the same workshop, with a single point of contact from start to finish.

    Where do you manufacture and install?

    We manufacture in Barcelona, at our workshop in Cabrera de Mar, and install throughout Spain with our own team. It works the same for a single piece as for a run spread across several provinces. We've been doing this for over 32 years, and when a project is better solved with a different material or a different solution, we say so instead of forcing it.

    Request your quote

    Tell us what piece you need to install

    With the material, the dimensions and how it's fixed, we can already give you a figure. If the file doesn't have a cut line, we'll prepare one.

    Request a quote

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